KLM: 6 Item U.S.A. Wardrobe

As a riff on the "5 Piece French Wardrobe", I present to you the "6 Piece USA Wardrobe.

While I use the term "capsule", this is not about minimalism this time. I don’t care if you have 16 walk-in closets overflowing in your mansion and rented storage space as an additional "closet"- this isn’t about the totality of your clothing collection. This is about
1) arranging from your costume horde a manageable amount of clothing to mentally wrangle into a user friendly, cohesive, wardrobe and
2) being able to budget your money wisely.

A few of the other benefits that this approach makes possible:

• trying on a new look, vibe, and presentation
• keeping your wardrobe up to date
• playing with trends without going over-board
• learning to make pieces work together for head to toe looks

This list is SIX pieces per season (spring/summer and fall/winter are the two shopping seasons) instead of five because I’m AMERICAN and I like more stuff. Just kidding, it’s six because I like the idea of being able to do one item per month. If you’d rather buy six items in one shopping extravaganza, do your thang. I’ll be out wandering the shops for exercise.

So what else makes it U.S. American? What's more American than a base of jeans and tees? Also, this approach is about six BIG PERSONALITY pieces. It relies on having a solid base of basic neutrals (neutral colors for: tops, bottoms, outerwear, shoes, accessories), which you then put your six personality pieces on top of. It’s a great compromise for people who don’t want to spend a huge amount of time perfecting a personality-full wardrobe (or maybe haven't decided on the vision they want to present to the world), but also hate boring outfits. 

Your Neutrals base needs to go with everything, and account for the entirety of your lifestyle throughout the year (if you work on a ranch, your needs will be different from a CEO. If you live in Mexico, you will have different needs than folks in Alaska). I can’t guess what your needs are, so divide the suggested number of basic neutrals to fit your reality. You can pick a varied neutrals palette, as long as they all go with one another and create the level of contrast that you need. If you’re a high contrast person, you’re going to need a neutral palette that is more than blue jeans and mid-gray alone can offer you. Neutrals possibilities include: white/off white, natural/beige, blush, grey, olive, black, navy, tan, brown. If one of your basic neutrals wears out, it can be replaced at any time and does not count toward the 6.

Your Personality pieces can stay in your neutrals scheme. This is not what I’d recommend, but it is an option I feel obligated to mention. I know I tend to be down on entirely neutral basics wardrobes, but there are a few valid arguments in favor of it that I'll cover in the future. I’d recommend using your Personality pieces to add color, texture, and design interest, KLM Addition style. Use it to explore other personas or facets of yourself (FB types, B5 types, Signature Looks). Below are a few examples of ways to use your 6 Personality pieces. 

Annual Wardrobe Budget and Year-long Shopping Plan with Free PDF Planner

When you've determined your wardrobe's financial budget, space budget, and other considerations for the year, you can divide it up into your wardrobe needs. You could seek them all out at once and be over and done with it if you hate shopping and have the money to spend all in one go, but I'm going to lay it out from the assumption that you like shopping, or have to budget in an evenly distributed way. This approach will work with 10 Item Capsule wardrobes, so that if you don't have a wardrobe you love right now, by this time next year you could.

Financial planner Pete Dunn suggests spending just 5% of your take home pay on your wardrobe. If monthly your take home pay is $3000, that designates $150 per month toward clothing for you.

If your 5% is significantly less, that's ok. You can still have a fabulous wardrobe- it just might take a little bit longer (instead of buying one item each month, maybe you're shopping every other month, or maybe even just one really nice new item a year- it depends on your budget). It's important to buy the highest quality that you can afford, so that you can maximize your pay-per-wear ratio. If something is a good buy now, but falls apart in just a few washings, it will cost you more in the long run. The cruelty of it is that it takes more money to save more money, and not everyone can afford the up-front cost of high quality, long term money saving items. When this is the case, I recommend hand-me-downs and other low/no cost items that serve the function so that you can save more for replacements that serve the function, enhance your beauty, and are made to last. You can find some amazing and cheap items secondhand if you're able to put the time into regularly searching for them.

Once you have your wardrobe's financial budget planned, I task you with diligently sticking to it. You can carry over the budget if you don't spend as much as allotted in a month (i.e. if you have money left over), but never dip into the budgets for months that are yet to come. However great the item is, it's almost certain you'll find something just as good when you have the money for it. You might even find the same item on a better sale by then, so hang in there and be proud of yourself for sticking to your plan. You're reinforcing your willpower to follow through in all areas of your life. 

Because we're shopping to maximize cost-per-wear and hoping to find garments that will last us many years, we're best off shopping sales for high quality items during off-season sale times. Looking for a coat? Try the end of spring when things are warming up. Need sandals? The end of summer is the best time. You may not have the joy of wearing it often and right away, but because you're shopping with a long-term game plan, and because you're shopping to enhance your authentic beauty rather than trends, you're making a very smart investment that will bring you plenty of joy in the future. 

The items listed are for bigger items. You might want to designate a small portion of your monthly budget towards undergarments such as socks, underwear, bras, slips, shapewear, and the like.

Wardrobe Wheel of the Year
January         1. onesie (dress or jumpsuit)
February       2. top
March            3. bottom
April              4. top (sweaters might be on sale)
May               5. onesie
June             *coat, purse, pair of shoes, or piece of jewelry
July               6. top    
August          7. bottom
September    8. top
October        9. onesie
November   10. top
December    *coat, purse, pair of shoes, or piece of jewelry

The numbers (1-10) are to show what is counting toward a 10-item capsule wardrobe. The asterisks are suggested wildcard months for other major items. 

If you find the perfect pair of pants in January, feel free to swap months and try to find a onesie in March instead. 

Please enjoy this free one page PDF planner I made for you to fill in the blanks and create a year long budget and plan for your own fabulous wardrobe. <3

How to put together a minimalist / modern wardrobe with personality

If you saw my article on the usual, horribly boring, capsule wardrobes, you know I have a bone to pick. Minimal wardrobe can still mean maximal style, and here's how to do it to avoid the dreaded white/grey/black, tshirt/jeans, pop of red, one stripey shirt/dress, capsule. 

If you want to stick with white/grey/black you can and you can do it fabulously. If you want to stick with tops and jeans, you can and you can do it fabulously. The more your wardrobe contains neutrals and casuals, the more oomph and interest those items need to have (or have added to them in the rest of the outfit equation).

Personally I go through periods of loving color, and then needing a break from it, but there are still loads of ways you can work with neutrals. White on white prints are even a thing, and it still doesn't feel overwhelming (when you're seeking minimal/modern out of overwhelm) because it's still just white. 

white on white by inaglassforest featuring a vera bradley backpack

Any choices you can make to push it away from being plain- plain t-shirt, plain jeans, plain skirt, plain shoes, will elevate the look immensely. The following are some possibilities to elevate: 

Texture

satin
course knits
cashmere
(p)leather
suede
vinyl
velvet
fuax fur
fringe
boucle
tweed
embroidery
embossed
tapestry
popcorn
lace

Print

paisley
leopard
floral
stripes
zebra
fronds
gingham
houndstooth
plaid
polka dots
cabling

Color

color-blocking
two tone
brights
pastels
metallic
monotone
neutrals

Design interest

knots
twists
ruffles
layers
pleating
asymmetry
scalloping
necklines (sharp v, mandarin, funnel, queen anne, cowl, etc)
bell sleeves
sheer panels or other texture
one sleeve
piping

 

Mix & Match Wardrobes are Overrated

Separates, separates everywhere! Mix-n-match separates! Believe me, I understand why they are everywhere- they are loved because we currently live in a culture of hyper casual dress, and they are lauded as providing more wardrobe options as they are mixed and matched (which adds even more emphasis to casual appearance). I need to tell you, there is a dark side to separates. I'm especially lookin' at you sister capsule bloggers.

Typical Capsule Wardrobe by inaglassforest featuring long sleeve tops

Tell me that the above set I created doesn't look painfully familiar. Why are so many wardrobes so horribly lacking in personality?

Separates are overrated because:

1. Casual is not the epitome of progress. It has a use and a place, but the way we present ourselves is a huge communication tool, and I like to think there is more to be visually communicated than "I'm on break from marathon Netflix in bed". 

2. When your goal is to maximize mix-match-ability, you will be forced to choose fairly plain items and rely almost entirely on accessories for visual personality. This isn't bad, but I think you could do better.

3. It doesn't flatter many people to create the line breaks that this separates approach takes, and it takes more effort to blend the line and complete a cohesive look than if you had chosen a smashing dress or suit. There are casual dresses and suits that would launch you so far from Netflix in bed. 

4. Option overload. Sure, you have a closet full of separates, but do you actually wear and pair them all? Do you enjoy it? Wouldn't it be easier to have a handful of complete looks just ready for you to grab and go, knowing it's already fabulous?

5. While the separates approach doesn't look awful on very many people, it also isn't enhancing anyone, due to the profound lack of flavor. Solids in neutrals (white, grey, navy, brown, cream, blue denim/chambray) are really really great. As filler. They are what you use when the rest of the outfit is loud and has already made the statement of YOU. Or you wear solids in neutrals as a statement themselves- modern/minimal, but in this case, there is a large burden placed on the style of the garment(s) to make a statement. A white button-up and a black skirt aren't going to do it. A white button up with sheer panels and bell sleeves, and a black midi skirt with fabric knots/twists and an asymmetric hem might do it- for a subdued look.

I get wanting wardrobe to be easy and to be comfortable. I even get wanting to blend into the crowd in a way that is aesthetically pleasing without calling attention to yourself. But you're reading my blog, and I want more for you. We can do easy and comfortable (not pajama comfortable, but easy walking comfortable), but we have to do it in a way that really sees you, and then chooses to enhance what it sees. Death to mix and match wardrobes.

Capsule Wardrobe with Personality by inaglassforest featuring ankle strap shoes

This capsule wardrobe was put together quickly, and without anyone in particular in mind, so it isn't as cohesive as it could be, but if you ask me any day of the week which wardrobe I'd want, or which I'd want to see on someone, I will hands down always choose this second capsule.

The first/typical capsule has 240 possible combinations, each as dull as the last. It's an impressive number from 15 pieces. With the personality capsule, 14 pieces makes 80 possible combinations. If you added another pant of some kind, you could have 15 pieces and 128 possible combinations- still only half that of the first, but how many do you need? How many combinations will you wear? What makes you feel expressed and joyful to wear? What's easier to look great in?

Thank-you for indulging my agitation. I truly understand the appeal of neutral-heavy, mix & match, separates, and I will continue to help you wrangle them and make them work as you wish. Just know that there is another way of doing things, and it could be even better. 

My Capsule Wardrobe January 1, 2016

It is a living, evolving capsule. You can also see snapshots of how it has been in the past. I'm constantly seeking to play with and improve it. Clothing is a necessity, and style a passion to explore. 

Not pictured: exercise clothes, undergarments, jewelry

1. purple velvet blazer
2. coral cutout 3/4 sleeve jacket
3. coral trenchcoat
4. green wool coat
5. grey moto jacket
6. grey drape blazer
7. green wool cloak
8. red-orange blazer
9. rosegold sequin mini dress
10. cream stretchy sheath dress
11. navy sparkle neck bodycon mini dress
12. green double zip sheath dress 
13. grey sheath dress
14. grey maxi dress
15. green halter maxi dress
16. wine slip dress (got rid of)
17. navy sparkle maxi dress (favorite thing)
18. red-orange purse
19. black purse
20. gold purse
21. black hooded dress sleeveless maxi
22. aqua maxi dress
23. green halter jumpsuit
24. coral purse
25. grey tote
26. grey silk tie-dye cami
27. grey split hem tee
28. purple silk blouse button up
29. navy ruffle neck sleeveless blouse
30. navy silk tank
31. grey midi tube skirt
32. green maxi straight skirt (diy)
33. red-orange slim pant
34. grey wool trouser
35. black wrap waist pant
36. coral drape pant
37. slight bootcut jeans (currently don't fit)
38. silver clutch
39. black lace up heels
40. lime and aqua peeptoe booties
41. coral wedges
42. holographic belt
43. sunglasses
44. shoulder jewelry
45. taupe snakeskin sandal heels
46. gold skyscraper heels
47. black and navy sandal heels
48. black bow booties
49. pewter loafers
50. black oxfords

There are many items on this list that I know I want to send on their way, and many items I know I want to replace. My current ideal wardrobe is: suits, sleeved maxi dresses, straight midi skirts, blouses, flats/lows in: green, aubergine, royal purple, coral pink, and grey. Not terribly much on my list that aligns, but that's the plan, folks.